In the Land of Neon Madness (July 2002)

It still seems like it was yesterday that I embarked on a mission that would take me to the other side of the planet.  Even though it was only a few weeks ago, it has been a crazy head trip since I arrived here in Busan.  The flight to get here, including the layovers at O’Hare in Chicago and Incheon Airport in Seoul, lasted over 24 hours.  When I finally arrived in Busan I still hadn’t seen the sun set.  That was my first, and hopefully last experience of 24 hour sunlight. It’s hard to explain, but I couldn’t sleep while the sun stayed out, even though the exhaustion got heavier and heavier.

I met my employer at the airport, but the introductions were short because of the World Cup game involving Korea and Germany in the semi-final round of the tournament.  Handshakes were exchanged and it was a mad dash to a taxi.  My first experience of Busan was rather surreal because every living soul was either in a bar, or at home watching the soccer game.  Soccer is the national sport here and taken very seriously.  The whole thing reminded me a little of the Olympic men’s hockey game between the U.S. and Canada.  Nobody was driving or walking around.  The entire city seemed deserted as we drove at mach speeds through a ghost-like metropolis.  For those of you not acquainted with Busan, it is a sprawling coastal city of 4,000,000 people; so to not see anyone out is extremely rare and bizarre in any city this size.  When we arrived at Peter and Emily’s apartment I was greeted by all my co-workers who were over watching the game.  I was given a drink, a seat and some food. My Korean experience had begun.

Since I’ve been here it has been nothing but a constant barrage of information.  The first week here I could hardly sleep.  Every day I was being taught how to teach, introduced to people, shown where to eat, how to be polite in this foreign land, how to use the subway and other public transportation, what the currency was valued at and how to use various offices that cater to foreigners and tourists.  Right now I’m in a Russian tourist bureau using their computer, for example.  I just finished applying for my immigration card which involved a ton of paper work, photos and fingerprints.  Also, teaching hasn’t been the easiest gig I’ve ever done, and so adjusting to that has taken a little time, and will continue to.  Finally, however, things are starting to slow down to a more relaxing pace.  I know how to get around the city, I’m beginning to know all of my student’s names and mannerisms, and I know a couple of nice Korean restaurants where I know how to order and the prices are very cheap. 

I’ve been introduced to a couple of bars that cater to foreigners and since then I’ve been able to meet some people.  Last night I went to a blues bar called Soul Trane (Trane as in John Coltrane), and had a great time.  I’ve also found a place called Camel. The owner is a beautiful Korean woman named Non-hae (at least I think that’s how it’s spelled).  She probably has the only bar that serves Canadian beer, mind you it’s only Molson; however, if you’ve tried Korean beer (the national brand is Hite) then Molson Canadian tastes like the best beer ever brewed!