Cafe on Thu Wheels Adventure Hue, Vietnam (2003)
I awoke to the pattering of rain on my window. This is the rainy season in Central Vietnam, where Hue is located, and it’s something I guess I’ll have to endure. I mean, I want perfect weather for my travels, man! Come on. Nothing less! Well, bad weather is all part of the adventure. Having lived in Korea I’m used to typhoons and rainy seasons. This is nothing. So, I’m figuring no bad weather is gonna keep me inside.
I head down to the lobby where a taped game of soccer is playing on the tube. It’s Man U. vs. Liverpool. I already saw it and quickly head for the door. My stomach is rumbling and I’m thinking of eating something in one of the cafe’s that line the alley my hotel is situated in. I’m in Hue; have been here for a day, and I’m thinking that rain or no rain, I’ve got to get outside of town to check out some countryside. Just as I’m thinking this, a lady starts to yell at me from the doorstep to her cafe. “Hey, you! Big boy! Come here. Why don’t you come here? What’s wrong? You don’t like my restaurant? Come in. Very cheap.” I keep walking but she literally grabs me by the arm and throws me into the place. I thought I’d seen it all when it came to getting a sale.
Her name is Thu and she immediately unleashes a barrage of foul language that I’m finding totally amusing. She informs me that she is a strong woman and many people don’t like her “power”. She says, “They are wankers and tossers. I don’t like cynical people. Is that a banana in your pocket or are you happy to see me?” What!?! This woman is too much. I’m busting a gut in this place, so I decide that this is as good a place to eat as any.
I’d actually read about this place in Lonely Planet, “Cafe on Thu Wheels” http://cafeonthuwheels.com/. They offer motorcycle tours through the countryside for about $6. This gets you a guide and your own motorcycle to tour on. Thu explains all this to me, but one quick glance outside keeps me skeptical. I mean, I like adventures, but come on man, let’s keep things in perspective. The rain is coming down in sheets. Thu says to me, “Don’t worry. Weather is verrrry nice today. Sun all day.” She puts a little too much emphasis on “very”, almost like she’s trying to convince herself. Well, my health plan doesn’t cover me if I end up twisted and broken on the side of the road with a healthy dose of road rash, but what the hell! If you don’t take chances once in awhile, you’re missing out. “Sign me up!”
It was an absolutely amazing experience. I was so wet I was dry, but who’s complaining. Ripping around the mountains, through villages, down dirt roads past rice fields and deltas was worth the risks and definitely worth the money. Mud was flying everywhere and I was laughing so hard the emperor’s were probably rolling in their tombs.
When I was a kid and it was raining we’d say, “God’s taking a leak”. If big G was taking a leak than he’d had a few too many on this particular day. The rain was falling so hard it was sideways. I loved every minute of it.
I awoke the next morning after a healthy night of drinking Tiger beer (stuff’ll kill you – it’s like Vietnam’s Budweiser) with a bunch of British expats and Vietnamese. My train to Danang left at 8:00, so I had to quickly pack and head out the door. I was on my way to Hoi An. This is a little tourist enclave along the coast. One of the few places that escaped total annihilation during the American war, so you get a chance to see some classic Vietnamese architecture. Anyways, after a three hour train ride through the mountains and jungle, followed by a 45 minute harrowing ride on the back of a motorcycle, I’ve arrived. I’m leaving for Nha Trang tomorrow and will keep you posted on that leg of the trip. It’s supposed to be parties, massages, and music on the beach.
“Those who dream by day are cognizant of many things which escape those who dream only by night”. Edgar Allen Poe (Eleonora)